Glossary entry (derived from question below)
inglês term or phrase:
knock-out panel
português translation:
painel removível; painel destacável
Added to glossary by
Matheus Chaud
Dec 29, 2023 17:17
5 mos ago
26 viewers *
inglês term
knock-out panel
inglês para português
Tecn./Engenharia
Eletrônica/engenharia elétrica
press release of a pharma
É um painel num aparelho de ar condicionado que pode ser retirado, caso seja necessário, para passar cabos de ligação.
Proposed translations
(português)
References
knockout plugs, panel, plates, | Tomasso |
Change log
Jan 3, 2024 17:46: Matheus Chaud changed "Edited KOG entry" from "<a href="/profile/116840">Ana Mafalda Costa's</a> old entry - "knock-out panel"" to ""painel removível""
Proposed translations
+7
4 minutos
Selected
painel removível
Acho que é (simplesmente) isso.
4 KudoZ points awarded for this answer.
Comment: "Obrigada, Arthur!"
+3
4 minutos
painél removível; painel destacável
Estas foram as duas traduções que encontrei com mais frequência :)
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Note added at 6 mins (2023-12-29 17:23:16 GMT)
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painel destacável:
https://www.google.com/search?q="painel destacável"
Peer comment(s):
agree |
Thiago Silva
24 minutos
|
Obrigado, Thiago!
|
|
agree |
Mario Freitas
:
6 horas
|
agree |
Donatello Wilhelm
5 dias
|
18 minutos
painel extraível
Mais uma sugestão.
https://www.whirlpool.pt/static_assets/pdf/PT/Catálogo Ar C...
http://www.citytec.net/cliente/conteudos/Image/Whirlpool.pdf
https://www.whirlpool.pt/static_assets/pdf/PT/Catálogo Ar C...
http://www.citytec.net/cliente/conteudos/Image/Whirlpool.pdf
4 horas
tampa/tampão removível
tampa/tampão removível
1 dia 5 horas
painel destácavel, painel removível
O termo "knock-out panel" em português pode ser traduzido como "painel destacável" ou "painel removível". Esse tipo de painel é projetado para ser removido facilmente, especialmente para permitir a passagem de cabos de ligação, como no caso de um aparelho de ar condicionado.
Peer comment(s):
neutral |
Tainá Ferreira
: Já foi sugerido pelo Matheus.
1 dia 19 horas
|
neutral |
expressisverbis
: Resposta já dada antes pelo colega.
2 dias 11 horas
|
3 dias 29 minutos
painel de nocaute
Encontrei traduzido literalmente em alguns manuais.
3 dias 21 horas
Pinel removivel
"Knock-out panel" can be translated to Portuguese as "painel destacável" or "painel removível". This term often refers to a section or panel in a design or packaging that is intended to be easily removed or punched out. It is a common feature in various products, including electronic devices or packaging, where certain sections can be knocked out to access internal components or features
Reference comments
9 horas
Reference:
knockout plugs, panel, plates,
Looking at the pictures, the original language has the idea To Forcefully break the small tangs, slivers of metal that hold something in place. Plugs, panels, squares will be punched out, knocked out, consult pictures.
10210/rh2630bk_install. page 1 wiring knockouts page 3 3.Remove knockout from the wiring
opening (top or rear) to be used.
For rectangular venting, remove only the
3-1/4" x 10" rectangular opening knockout
for the venting method (roof or wall) you
have selected.
page 5 To install a non-vented
(recirculating-only)
model:
3a.Remove knockout from the
wiring opening (rear or top) to be used.
The range hood cabinet may have venting
knockouts. Do not remove these venting
knockouts. The model cannot be vented
--------------------------------------------------
Note added at 9 hrs (2023-12-30 02:36:00 GMT)
--------------------------------------------------
link https://content.abt.com/documents/10210/rh2630bk_install.pdf
--------------------------------------------------
Note added at 9 hrs (2023-12-30 02:40:12 GMT)
--------------------------------------------------
https://www.finehomebuilding.com/project-guides/wiring/fitti... I use just a regular old Sharpie and mark the bottom edge of the box so that I know approximately where I’m going to be putting it. The next step is to take out all the knockouts that I need for all the various wires. The first one I do is for the main feeder wire, which is a 4/3 Romex copper. I’m going to feed this through a 1-inch cable clamp on the bottom of this panel, right in the center. There are various tools for taking out the knockouts; probably the easiest thing is just to use a basic screwdriver and give it a little push. Make sure the knockout you’re about to remove is actually the right size for the cable clamp that you have. Now I put the retaining ring on there. It helps to know roughly on which side of the panel you’re going to set up that circuit so that you can run the wire through the bottom on the corresponding side. It will give you a little bit of an advantage. In this case, I’m going to try to keep them all pretty close to the center.
I have two number 10s, two number 12s, and two number 14-gauge wires. I will run the four smaller-gauge wires on this side of the main service entrance. I will run the two number 10s on the other side to get a bit of working room on both sides. If I have multiples, I work outward from the middle; it’s easier to run wire through the knockouts in the back before you come to the knockouts in the front, so you can get all that nicely tucked in and neat. All four I’ve just loosened up are for a ½-inch cable clamp or a 3/8-inch cable clamp. The other two will be for a ¾-inch cable clamp. These are a little bit different in that they have a concentric ring. You can use a screwdriver to pry them up a little bit. These all have spot welds on them that are designed to break off. It’s a lot easier to get these out of the way before the panel goes on the wall. The smaller ones are just punch-out discs, and you can take those and spin them off.
10210/rh2630bk_install. page 1 wiring knockouts page 3 3.Remove knockout from the wiring
opening (top or rear) to be used.
For rectangular venting, remove only the
3-1/4" x 10" rectangular opening knockout
for the venting method (roof or wall) you
have selected.
page 5 To install a non-vented
(recirculating-only)
model:
3a.Remove knockout from the
wiring opening (rear or top) to be used.
The range hood cabinet may have venting
knockouts. Do not remove these venting
knockouts. The model cannot be vented
--------------------------------------------------
Note added at 9 hrs (2023-12-30 02:36:00 GMT)
--------------------------------------------------
link https://content.abt.com/documents/10210/rh2630bk_install.pdf
--------------------------------------------------
Note added at 9 hrs (2023-12-30 02:40:12 GMT)
--------------------------------------------------
https://www.finehomebuilding.com/project-guides/wiring/fitti... I use just a regular old Sharpie and mark the bottom edge of the box so that I know approximately where I’m going to be putting it. The next step is to take out all the knockouts that I need for all the various wires. The first one I do is for the main feeder wire, which is a 4/3 Romex copper. I’m going to feed this through a 1-inch cable clamp on the bottom of this panel, right in the center. There are various tools for taking out the knockouts; probably the easiest thing is just to use a basic screwdriver and give it a little push. Make sure the knockout you’re about to remove is actually the right size for the cable clamp that you have. Now I put the retaining ring on there. It helps to know roughly on which side of the panel you’re going to set up that circuit so that you can run the wire through the bottom on the corresponding side. It will give you a little bit of an advantage. In this case, I’m going to try to keep them all pretty close to the center.
I have two number 10s, two number 12s, and two number 14-gauge wires. I will run the four smaller-gauge wires on this side of the main service entrance. I will run the two number 10s on the other side to get a bit of working room on both sides. If I have multiples, I work outward from the middle; it’s easier to run wire through the knockouts in the back before you come to the knockouts in the front, so you can get all that nicely tucked in and neat. All four I’ve just loosened up are for a ½-inch cable clamp or a 3/8-inch cable clamp. The other two will be for a ¾-inch cable clamp. These are a little bit different in that they have a concentric ring. You can use a screwdriver to pry them up a little bit. These all have spot welds on them that are designed to break off. It’s a lot easier to get these out of the way before the panel goes on the wall. The smaller ones are just punch-out discs, and you can take those and spin them off.
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