Glossary entry

Italian term or phrase:

molleggiare

English translation:

ease

Added to glossary by Helen Pringle
Feb 27, 2017 17:00
7 yrs ago
1 viewer *
Italian term

molleggiare

Italian to English Other Textiles / Clothing / Fashion pattern making
the term appears on a book on patterns and is in a list of abbreviations, so there isn't much context (other terms are things like "sbieco", "punto spallare", "sovrapporre").
I found this online:
Molleggiare è la tecnica per distribuire la lentezza nel giro manica. La regola è che la cuffia è più abbondante del giro manica, ma molleggiando con le dita le due parti si raccordano e lasciano al braccio una certa libertà di movimento.

I was thinking "move down" or "push down", but perhaps the experts have a better way of saying this?
Proposed translations (English)
4 +2 ease
3 +1 gathering
Change log

Mar 2, 2017 16:33: Helen Pringle Created KOG entry

Proposed translations

+2
9 mins
Selected

ease

I remember this from reading the instructions on pattern directions. It is when the excess cloth of the extra cloth of sleeve has to be "eased" into a smaller space on the bodice (something like that)! :-)

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Note added at 14 mins (2017-02-27 17:14:20 GMT)
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Sorry - I meant that it is when the excess length of the sleeve cloth has to be "eased" into the smaller space...
Peer comment(s):

agree Linda Thody : Yes! You create *ease* points, front and back, and also *ease* stitching between the points before *easing in* the sleeve.
16 hrs
Thanks for good explanation :-)
agree Rachel Fell : in view of the asker'sreference I'd say something like "easing (it/the fabric) around
2 days 10 hrs
Right Rachel - I just translated the word and didn't put in the context you used. It takes a bit of pulling and handwork! Thanks. These things aren't done by hand anymore... a shame
Something went wrong...
4 KudoZ points awarded for this answer. Comment: "thank you!"
+1
9 mins

gathering

See first ref in Italian for further explanation of molleggiare = arricciatura

Shirring is too specific in this case, but the wordreference ref also mentions "gathering" which is very generic and should be suitable here.

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Note added at 12 mins (2017-02-27 17:12:15 GMT)
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Nel primo ref, a metà pagina spiega:

Shiva, hai presente una manica nella parte della spalla? Ecco, quel pezzo li', per adattarsi al giromanica, per esempio del corpetto della camicia, deve essere molleggiato: cioe' leggermente arricciato, perche' e' un pochino piu' abbondante e in questo modo riesce ad assecondare meglio la curvatura della spalla.
Sul sito di Burda da anche questa definizione:
Molleggiare = Un metodo per unire due pezzi di tessuto, uno dei quali è più lungo dell'altro.

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Note added at 14 mins (2017-02-27 17:14:45 GMT)
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Here's a ref that includes BOTH GATHERING and EASING as SYNONYMS

https://www.craftsy.com/blog/2014/02/sewing-in-set-in-sleeve...

Since the gathering or easing will be done from the inside of the sleeve, bobbin stitches are always much easier to gather.
Note from asker:
Hi Patrick, thank you so much for your thoughtful answer. I think "gathering" might work too, but given the context/sentence in Italian I've gone with "to ease" to avoid any confusion with creating fuller "gathering".
Peer comment(s):

agree Rosanna Palermo : http://www.thesewingdictionary.com/
19 mins
Interesting that this ref says gathering and easing are NOT the same. The other says they are....
neutral Helen Pringle : Easing involves a lesser amount of fabric to be sewn into the seam without being very visible, whereas gathering is very visible and roughly pleated. Hope I explained it OK.
4 hrs
neutral Linda Thody : Sorry Patrick but I'd say *gathering* is usually used for much fuller things, like skirts for instance
16 hrs
Something went wrong...
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